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Commission 01 · Business

Navy three-piece
Boardroom presence

Cut for a client who sits boards and roadshows. A firm shoulder, a suppressed waist and a full-canvas front that holds its line through a long day.

Construction
Full canvas
Cloth
Super 150s wool · 260g
Shoulder
English structured shoulder
Lead time
About 8–10 weeks · two fittings
Hours
50+ hours of handwork
From
Quoted privately

Details chosen by this client

Notch lapel 8.5cm Double vent Working buttonholes Matching waistcoat Wine lining Horn buttons

May be altered to your brief

Peak lapel Single or no vent Patch / flap pockets Ticket or secret pocket 3 or 4 cuff buttons Side adjusters
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Make and structure

The method of Savile Row and Naples: a pattern for one body, a floating canvas, a hand-padded lapel.

Floating canvas

Horsehair and cotton are hand-padded to the forepart, so the coat takes the warmth of the body rather than blistering as fused canvas will.

Hand-padded lapel

Pick-stitching sets a natural roll. The collar stays on the collarbone when you sit or stand.

A pattern for one man

Thirty-odd measures, then a paper pattern of his own. Slope, high-low shoulder and a forward stance are written into the cut.

The cloth

Yarn / SuperSuper 150s worsted wool
Weight260 g/m² · spring through light winter
WeavePlain, tightly set, a quiet sheen
MillsItalian or English houses — Loro Piana, Dormeuil, Scabal and others on request
Why navyThe surest colour for daylight business; it does not grey under lamps or compete on camera

Your brief will be different

This coat is one client’s answer, not a stock model. Shoulder, sleeve, vents and lining are cut again for your rooms and hours.

Begin a private consultation