Commission 04 · Soft Construction

Soft-construction jacket
Ease for the day

For a client who dislikes a padded shoulder and must fly as well as meet. A Neapolitan shirt-shoulder, half-canvas or none — a coat that will roll a sleeve and stand alone.

Construction: Soft shoulder · half or unconstructed
Cloth: Wool-linen · 220g
Shoulder: Spalla camicia
Lead time: About 6–8 weeks
Worn for: Travel / a studio / the weekend
With: Trousers in the same cloth or a contrast

Details chosen by this client

No pad Patch pockets Single vent Half-canvas

May be altered to your brief

Fully unconstructed Knitted armhole Contrast elbow patches Summer linen

Commission in this direction View other commissions

Why a soft coat

Not a lesser make

What leaves is the pad and the fuse, not the hand. The shoulder still asks for hours of sewing if it is to fall and not collapse.

A kinder line for many Asian frames

A narrow shoulder and a short neck are crowded by a hard pad. A soft shoulder lengthens the neck and eases the chest.

One coat, several rooms

Shirt and tie for a meeting; a T-shirt for the road. The same pattern will take a second cloth for another season.

Soft-construction jacketEase for the day